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- When it comes to high-end Olympic fashion 鈥� be it for festive opening ceremonies, or for competition 鈥� all runways lead to Paris
- Stella Jean will be there, styling each of Haiti鈥檚 dozen or so athletes herself
- Ralph Lauren says it will be fitting each athlete personally
PARIS: Sure, they call it the City of Light. But Paris is also the City of Fashion, one of most influential fashion capitals of the world for decades, no, centuries (remember Louis XIV?)
So it鈥檚 no surprise that fashion designers across the globe are busy getting their national team uniforms ready for their unique spotlight. When it comes to high-end Olympic fashion 鈥� be it for festive opening ceremonies, or for competition 鈥� all runways lead to Paris.
Stella Jean will be there, styling each of Haiti鈥檚 dozen or so athletes herself. Jean, an Italian-Haitian designer based in Rome, figures she has exactly two seconds, on opening ceremony night, to make an impression on the world 鈥� an impression that may reverberate for years. 鈥淔or these athletes, it鈥檚 a victory just to be here,鈥� says Jean, whose vivid, colorful design is intended to highlight the cultural vitality of the Caribbean nation.
On the other end of the size (and budget) spectrum is Ralph Lauren, who will outfit hundreds of athletes of the US team at opening and closing ceremonies, for the ninth time. Lauren, who鈥檚 presenting a casual look of blue jeans and blazers, is of course one of the world鈥檚 richest designers, along with Giorgio Armani, who has been designing Italy鈥檚 uniforms since 2012.
Countless other designers have gotten involved 鈥� including, this year, more young, 鈥渋ndie鈥� labels eager to make a splash. It鈥檚 also a chance to emphasize qualities such as sustainability in fashion and adaptability, too, as in designs for the Paralympics.
鈥淒esigners and manufacturers now realize this can be a huge platform for them, for many things,鈥� says Alison Brown, who co-hosts a podcast on all things Olympics, 鈥淜eep the Flame Alive.鈥� For example: 鈥淪ustainability is a huge buzzword now for this whole Olympics,鈥� she says.
And so is style 鈥� because, well, Paris.
鈥淵ou always want to represent your country, and you want to represent the athletes. But it seems like this time, the pressure to do it well has been turned up a notch,鈥� Brown says.
Some emerging details on various uniform designs:
Canada: A focus on inclusivity, adaptability
During the design process, the team from Lululemon, outfitting Canada鈥檚 athletes for the second time, says they listened carefully to the athletes, and how they felt in the clothes. 鈥淲hen you feel your best, you perform your best,鈥� says Audrey Reilly, creative director for Team Canada at the athletic apparel company.
She recalls listening to Alison Levine, a Paralympian who uses a wheelchair, and learning the athlete had nothing suitable to train in 鈥� so she wore medical scrubs.
鈥淚 was shocked that a professional athlete had to do that,鈥� Reilly said in an interview. So we said, 鈥淟et鈥檚 investigate.鈥� One result was a 鈥渟eated carpenter pant,鈥� part of a collection intended to be inclusive and adaptable. Other features include special closures to facilitate putting on and taking off garments, and pockets at the knees so an athlete like Levine can access her phone when training.
The collection covers all aspects of Team Canada鈥檚 journey, from travel to the games, to opening and medal ceremonies, to training 鈥� everything except competition. To combat the expected searing Paris heat, Lululemon, which has a four-Games deal with the team, paid special attention to ventilation and wicking.
And for opening ceremonies, designers created what they call a 鈥渢apestry of pride.鈥� Hand-drawn and engineered into the fabric, it includes 10 animals 鈥� nine representing the provinces of Canada and one representing France. 鈥淲e wanted to evoke all of Canada, coast to coast and north to south,鈥� Reilly says.
Haiti: 鈥淭hey know their bodies are a flag鈥�
Stella Jean is used to designing beautiful clothes. But beauty for beauty鈥檚 sake was not a consideration in her designs for Haiti鈥檚 team. It was all about the message.
鈥淭his will be the first good news coming out of Haiti in at least the last three years,鈥� she says, the athletes鈥� appearance a counter-message to news about political turmoil, poverty or natural disasters. 鈥淪o, I felt the responsibility to say as much as I can about the country.鈥�
For that, Jean is collaborating with Haitian artist Philippe Dodard, whose vibrant painting will be incorporated into the ceremonial uniforms 鈥� a brightly hued skirt for women and pants for men, paired with traditional items like a chambray shirt. The designs have been constructed from 鈥渓eftover鈥� fabric 鈥� sustainability, yes, but not because it is trendy, says Jean, but because in Haiti it鈥檚 both a tradition and a necessity.
Jean calls the Haitian athletes 鈥渁mbassadors.鈥�
鈥淭hese ambassadors will be there, in Paris,鈥� she says, 鈥渁nd they all know, even if they are very, very young, how important their presence is 鈥� and that it鈥檚 not just about performance. They know their bodies are a flag.鈥�
USA: 鈥淣othing says America like blue jeans鈥�
For the last summer games in steamy Tokyo, Ralph Lauren outfitted athletes with something cool 鈥� literally 鈥� a technology that directed heat away through a fan device at the back of the neck.
For steamy Paris, he鈥檚 introducing another type of cool: good old American jeans.
鈥淣othing says America like blue jeans, especially when we鈥檙e in Paris,鈥� said David Lauren, the label鈥檚 chief branding and innovation officer and the founder鈥檚 son, upon revealing the design in June.
For its ninth turn dressing Team USA for opening and closing ceremonies, Ralph Lauren says it will be fitting each athlete personally. For the opening ceremony they鈥檒l be wearing tailored navy blazers with blue-and-white striped Oxford shirts 鈥� and those blue jeans.
For the closing ceremony, the team will wear white jeans with matching jackets in red, white and blue. Lauren called the closing ceremony looks 鈥渕ore graphic, more fun, a little more exciting.鈥�
India: Mixing old and new
Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani is known for his ability to meld traditional elements with a modern sensibility. And that鈥檚 what he and his menswear brand Tasva has tried to do for his country鈥檚 Olympic team.
Tahiliani told GQ India that when he began doing research for India鈥檚 opening ceremony uniform, he noted a trend of countries incorporating their national flags into the design. So he began working on a design featuring the tricolor hues of saffron, white and green.
For men, Tahiliani began with a kurta, the typical Asian long and loose shirt. He paired that with a bundi, or traditional sleeveless jacket. He told the magazine he wears a bundi every day, inspired by his father, who was an admiral in the Indian navy.
After feedback from the Olympic committee, the designer moved away from a uniform-like look for women, opting for a sari, which he says 鈥渃an flatter any body type, and that鈥檚 exactly what we want for our female athletes.鈥�
All the designs incorporate embroidery of saffron and green. 鈥淭he goal is to create outfits that empower our athletes to represent India with pride and confidence,鈥� Tahiliani said.
Italy: A mix of elegance and tradition
Italian athletes will be elegantly attired in Emporio Armani uniforms, as they have for every Olympics since 2012.
The podium tracksuit is emblazoned with 鈥淲 Italia,鈥� shorthand for 鈥淓viva Italia,鈥� or, 鈥淟ong live Italy.鈥� The motto could extend to designer Giorgio Armani himself, who turned 90 on July 11.
鈥淪eeking new solutions for the athlete鈥檚 kit, which must blend elegance with practicality, is always an exciting challenge for me,鈥� Armani said last year when the national kit was presented at the Spring-Summer 2024 runway show for the youthful and sporty Emporio Armani brand.
The athletes鈥� tracksuits are in Armani blue, which has long been the color of the designer鈥檚 daily uniform, either as a T-shirt or fine pullover.
Athletes will have no excuse for not knowing the national anthem: the beginning is printed inside the collar of the polo shirts, and the entire first verse is inside the jackets.
Britain: Four nations, not one
The 60-year old British clothing brand Ben Sherman, known for its menswear, is creating Britain鈥檚 Olympic uniforms for the third time, and this year wants to remind the world that Britain is four nations, not one.
Its design for the opening and closing ceremonies 鈥渞epresents the unity and diversity of the UK, reflecting the rich tapestry of our nation鈥檚 identity.鈥� says the label鈥檚 creative director, Mark Williams.
Williams described in an email his new four-nation floral motif, featuring a rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock, serving as 鈥渁 nod to the unique identities and histories of England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland.鈥�
Williams stresses the motif is not purely decorative, but meant to send a message of collaboration and unity. His floral motif appears is in colors of blue and red 鈥� on polo shirts, worn with a bomber jacket, and also on colorful socks, in a collaboration with the Happy Socks brand.
South Korea: Inspiration from a national symbol
South Korea鈥檚 athletes will sport uniforms inspired by the country鈥檚 national 鈥渢aegeuk鈥� circular symbol, which occupies the center of its flag. The red-and-blue circle connotes harmony between the negative cosmic forces of the blue portion and the positive cosmic forces of the red.
The motifs on the North Face-branded uniforms also include one of the four black trigrams (groups of bars) from the flag鈥檚 corners, according to Youngone Outdoor Co., an official partner of the country鈥檚 Olympic committee which produces and distributes North Face clothing in South Korea. The trigram being used symbolizes water.
A uniform for medal ceremonies features a jacket depicting the indigo blue waters off the country鈥檚 east coast in an ink-wash painting style, a red belt and black pants, Youngone says.
Team Korea鈥檚 uniform for opening and closing ceremonies was designed by Musinsa Standard, a private-label brand run by South Korean online fashion store Musinsa. The all-light blue uniform includes a blazer, its lining engraved with traditional white and blue porcelain designs, a traditional-style belt and slacks.